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Free Long Legged Frog Crochet Pattern – Easy Amigurumi Keychain Tutorial

There is something uniquely delightful about a crochet frog with long dangling limbs. His arms sway when he moves. His little feet bob and jiggle with every step you take. He has the most magnificently bulging green eyes topped with white circles that give him a permanently astonished expression — as though he can’t quite believe how cute he turned out. And honestly? Same.

This free long legged frog crochet pattern creates exactly that — a bouncy, personality-packed little amigurumi keychain that is genuinely impossible to resist. The dangling arms and legs are the signature feature: each hand and foot is crocheted as a separate rounded piece, then connected to the body with a length of chained yarn that acts as an arm or leg. The result is a frog that bounces and sways with every movement, which makes him about ten times more charming than a regular sewn-on-arm frog.

He’s also completely beginner-friendly, uses only two yarn colors, and comes together beautifully in a single crafting session. If you’ve been wanting to try an amigurumi frog, start here. You will not regret it.

About This Long Legged Frog Amigurumi Pattern

Here’s a quick overview before you begin:

• Skill Level: Beginner (the most complex technique is the chain limb connection — and it’s actually very simple!)
• Crochet Style: Amigurumi (worked in the round); head and body in one continuous piece
• Finished Size: Small keychain size — varies by yarn weight; DK weight produces a fun palm-sized frog approximately 3–4 inches tall (legs add extra length when dangling!)
• Recommended Use: Keychain, bag charm, backpack clip, rearview mirror charm, gift, craft fair bestseller

What makes this long legged frog crochet pattern so unique is the limb attachment method. Instead of sewing hands and feet directly onto the body (which would make the limbs stiff and static), you chain a length of yarn from the hand or foot piece and attach the other end of the chain to the body. This creates flexible, dangling limbs that move freely — giving the finished frog that wonderfully bouncy, lively quality.

Materials Needed

Here’s everything you need:

• Yarn: DK or light worsted weight in the following colors: You can check out Catania yarn
  • Green (body, eyes, hands, feet, and limb chains)
  • White (eye whites — the inner circle layer under the green eye pieces)
• Safety Eyes: Choose a size that fits comfortably through the layered eye construction (6mm–8mm works well for DK weight)
• Fiberfill Stuffing: For the body/head and optionally the hands and feet
• Tapestry/Yarn Needle: For sewing pieces together and weaving in ends. You can check out Tulip crochet hooks
• Keychain Ring or Lobster Clasp: To finish as a wearable charm
• Scissors

Eye construction tip: This frog uses a two-layer eye construction — a smaller White circle is sewn onto a larger Green circle, and the safety eye is inserted through both layers before attaching the whole assembly to the head. This gives the frog those iconic large, white-backed, cartoon-style bulging eyes that are absolutely central to his charm. Take care when aligning the layers before inserting the safety eye so everything is centered and secure.

Yarn tip: A smooth, medium green yarn gives the most frog-like result. Avoid anything too fuzzy or textured — you want clean, visible stitches for this small piece. Any shade of green from bright lime to forest green works beautifully depending on the frog personality you’re going for! You can check out Catania yarn

Crochet Abbreviations (US Terms)

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology:

Pattern Notes

A few important things to know before you start:

• The head and body are one continuous piece — you start at the top of the head and work all the way down through the body without cutting yarn until R31. The head decreases at R13–R16 create a narrow “neck” section, then the body increases begin at R19.
• Start stuffing at R16 — the pattern notes say to begin stuffing the head firmly here. Continue adding fiberfill progressively as you work the body rounds so the piece is evenly filled throughout.
• Stuff the body firmly at R30 before working R31 (the closing round).
• The eyes are built in two layers — white circles first, then green circles sewn on top, then safety eyes inserted through both layers before sewing to the head.
• The dangling limbs use chains to connect — after completing each hand and foot piece, you chain a length of yarn from the end of that piece and sew the other end of the chain to the body. The chain acts as the arm or leg. There’s no fixed chain length specified — adjust to achieve your preferred limb length.
• Always use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.

Free Long Legged Frog Crochet Pattern Instructions

1. Frog Body (Head & Body in One Piece)

(Use Green yarn)

Head section:

• R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
• R2: 6 inc [12]
• R3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
• R4: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]
• R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
• R6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x6 [36]
• R7–R12: 36 sc [36]
• R13: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x6 [30]
• R14: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]
• R15: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]
• R16: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Start stuffing the head firmly at this point.

Neck & body section:

• R17–R18: 12 sc [12]
• R19: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
• R20: 18 sc [18]
• R21: (sc, inc, sc) x6 [24]
• R22: 24 sc [24]
• R23: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
• R24–R27: 30 sc [30]
• R28: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]
• R29: (sc, dec, sc) x6 [18]
• R30: (sc, dec) x6 [12]

Stuff the body firmly with fiberfill.

• R31: 6 dec [6]

Fasten off and close the hole.

Construction tip: Rounds R13–R16 taper the head down to 12 stitches, creating a distinct narrow neck. R17–R18 maintain that narrow neck width, then R19 onward expands outward again into the body. This gives the finished frog a naturally defined head and body silhouette — wide round head, narrow neck, round plump body.

2. Eyes (Make 2)

(Use Green yarn)

• R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
• R2: 6 inc [12]
• R3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing to the top of the head.

3. Eye Whites (Make 2)

(Use White yarn)

• R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
• R2: 6 inc [12]

Fasten off, leaving a tail.

Assembly: Sew the White eye white pieces onto the center of the Green eye pieces. Then insert a safety eye through both layers (White and Green together) before attaching the completed eye assemblies to the head. Position each eye on top of the head, angling slightly outward and upward for that characteristic frog-eye look.

4. Hands (Make 2)

(Use Green yarn)

• R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
• R2: 6 inc [12]
• R3: (3 sc, inc) x3 [15]
• R4: 15 sc [15]
• R5: (3 sc, dec) x3 [12]
• R6: 6 dec [6]

Fasten off. (You can chain a strand of yarn from the closed end to attach the hand to the body, creating a dangling arm.)

5. Feet (Make 2)

(Use Green yarn)

• R1: 6 sc in MR [6]
• R2: 6 inc [12]
• R3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
• R4: 18 sc [18]
• R5: (sc, dec) x6 [12]
• R6: 6 dec [6]

Fasten off. (Similarly, chain a strand of yarn from the closed end to attach the foot to the body, creating a dangling leg.)

Limb length tip: The feet are slightly larger than the hands — they have one more round of increases (reaching 18 stitches vs 15 for the hands), giving them a wider, rounder, more webbed-foot appearance. This size difference between hands and feet is a charming detail that makes the frog look anatomically frog-like!

Assembly Instructions

Here’s how to bring your bouncy frog together!

Step 1: Assemble the eyes. Lay each White eye white circle centered on top of a Green eye circle. Using the White yarn tail, sew them together around the edge. Then insert a safety eye through the center of the White piece — going through all layers — and attach the locking backing inside. Repeat for the second eye.

Step 2: Attach the eyes to the head. Position both completed eye assemblies on the very top of the head (R1–R4 area), spacing them evenly apart and angling each one slightly outward. The eyes should bulge upward from the top of the head for that classic cartoon frog look. Sew each one firmly in place all the way around.

Step 3: Create and attach the arms. Thread your green yarn through the tapestry needle. Starting at the closed tip of one hand piece, chain a length of green yarn to your desired arm length — approximately 10–15 chains gives a nice bouncy dangle, but adjust to your taste. Sew the other end of the chain firmly to the side of the body at approximately R20–R22. Repeat for the second hand on the other side.

Step 4: Create and attach the legs. Using the same chain method, attach each foot to the bottom of the body at approximately R28–R30. Make the leg chains slightly longer than the arm chains so the feet hang lower — this gives the frog a more natural, froggy proportion. Approximately 15–20 chains per leg works well.

Step 5: Add the keychain hardware. Thread a keychain ring or lobster clasp through a small yarn loop at the very top of the head — either through a loop of yarn sewn between the eyes, or directly through a top stitch. Your long-legged frog keychain is ready to bounce!

Helpful Tips for Your Long Legged Frog Keychain

• Don’t skip the white eye layer. The two-layer eye construction — white circle under the green — is what creates those iconic big cartoon frog eyes. Without the white layer, the eyes look much flatter and less characterful. The extra few minutes are completely worth it.
• Align the safety eye centered in the white before sewing the layers together. Mark the center of the white circle with a pin, then insert the safety eye post through that point — through the white layer, then the green layer — before locking the backing. This ensures the pupil is perfectly centered in the white iris.
• Chain limbs are flexible — literally and figuratively. There’s no fixed length for the arm and leg chains. Longer chains = bouncier, more dramatic dangling. Shorter chains = cuter, stubbier limbs. Try holding a chain against the body before cutting to check how it looks before committing.
• Keep the chain limbs the same length on each side. Count your chains carefully so both arms are identical and both legs are identical — asymmetric limb lengths will make the frog hang crookedly from his keychain ring.
• Stuff both head and body progressively. The pattern specifies starting to stuff at R16 (head) and stuffing fully at R30 (body). Adding fiberfill in stages as you work rather than trying to stuff at the very end gives a more evenly distributed, naturally round result.
• Make the feet slightly larger than you think you need to. The feet reach 18 stitches and have a nice plump, rounded shape — they should look generously large relative to the body. That’s what makes them look like real frog feet!

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this long legged frog crochet pattern suitable for beginners?

Yes! This is one of the most beginner-friendly patterns in this collection. The stitch vocabulary is just single crochet, increase, and decrease — no complex stitches at all. The head/body is one continuous piece which eliminates the head-to-body sewing step. The chain limb attachment is the most novel technique, but it’s genuinely simple once you understand the concept. If you can work in the round, you can make this frog.

How long should I make the arm and leg chains?

The pattern doesn’t specify a fixed chain length — it’s deliberately flexible so you can customize the limb length to your preference. A good starting point is 12–15 chains for the arms and 18–22 chains for the legs, which gives a fun, bouncy proportion with legs visibly longer than arms (very frog-like!). Try holding a test chain against the assembled body before attaching to see how it looks.

Why does the body construction go narrow in the middle?

The decreases from R13–R16 taper the head down to just 12 stitches, creating the neck. Then R19 onward expands back outward to build the body. This is what gives the frog his distinctive head-neck-body silhouette rather than looking like one uniform ball. It’s a simple but very effective shaping technique that makes the finished frog much more recognizable and character-filled.

Can I embroider the eyes instead of using safety eyes?

Yes! If you’re making this frog for a young child or prefer not to use plastic hardware, simply embroider a circle of black yarn in the center of the white eye piece before sewing everything together. A few satin stitches in a small circle gives a perfectly sweet embroidered eye. Just make sure the embroidery is done before sewing the white piece onto the green eye piece.

Can I make this as a larger stuffed toy instead of a keychain?

Absolutely! Use a heavier yarn weight and a larger hook — the stitch counts remain the same and the frog scales up proportionally. Worsted weight yarn will give you a much larger frog, perfect as a stuffed toy. Simply make the chain limbs proportionally longer too, and skip the keychain hardware.

What’s the best way to keep the chain limbs from fraying or unraveling?

When you fasten off the chain, leave a tail of at least 6 inches and use your tapestry needle to weave the end securely back through the chain several times before trimming. At the body attachment end, sew the chain tail through several body stitches and weave the end in firmly. With both ends secure, the chain limbs hold up very well to the daily movement of a keychain.

Final Thoughts

The long legged frog keychain is one of those projects that just makes people happy. He’s green and round and his little arms and feet bounce when you walk. He has the most earnest, wide-eyed expression imaginable. He clips onto your bag and makes every errand feel slightly more delightful.

This free long legged frog crochet pattern gives you all of that in a genuinely quick, beginner-accessible package that uses only two yarn colors and one stitch type. Make one for your keys, make a pair, make a dozen in different shades of green and line them all up and call them a chorus — whatever you do, I hope you enjoy every bouncy, froggy stitch.

Happy crocheting — and happy ribbiting! 🐸🧶

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